Published at Wednesday, September 19th 2018. by Essie Guy in Sectional Sofa.
The width is around one meter and it was made to fit a specific place near my desk. So the way I built this is appropriate for small sofas and if your idea is to make it larger than one meter, you should reinforce the sitting board, it still barred or try some design changes. I use two sheets of 21 millimeter birch plywood and you can build the whole project using just a circular saw and a drill. I will use some other power tools because I have them. I got the main cuts done at the lumber store and now I'm getting everything perfectly sized to join the pieces together, utilize, the doweling jig from Rockefeller that is real, easy to use and I get perfect results with it.
I just simply created lines on the pieces to be connected and then aligned the mark on the jig with the pencil line, clamp it and drill the hole. The same goes for the vertical holes. Then I grab some three eighths or nine point: five millimeter dowels and glue everything in place. Since I don't have many clamps, I had to wait for every joint to be glued to move on to the next one. The back of the bottom module will be closed and I thought it was better to insert the back piece in place and trace the pencil line.
So I could let her repeat the doweling process and get a nicely fitted. This bar clamp came out very convenient. I could slide off the jaw insert the bar in the tight space between the other clamps and then reattach the jaw in the correct position on devastate module. I screwed two strips of plywood instead of a full board because it just wasn't necessary and wouldn't make the whole box much heavier for no good reason checking for fit and seems good that I can still slide out the bottom module with me sitting over the main Module, which means the birch plywood, doesn't flex that much. I cleaned the burn edges a bit before going ahead and cut the triangles for the back board.
I just quickly made a jig for my table saw to easily cut the diagonals for these two rectangles. I always like to check how things are going before attaching and gluing them together. I marked the ends of the triangle, so I knew where to glue them and repeat it all. The doweling jig procedures display attention to how deep you are drilling the holes. So you don't end up going all the way through the material.
I use the complementary triangle to help with the clamping. While the glue is drying, I added a back piece to the main super module. I just want to take a few seconds to thank all my patron supporters, I'm actually providing the plans for this project to all my patrons as a matter of saying, thank you for all the amazing support and being waiting so patiently I'll put the link below in case you want to take a look. I scraped off the glue and flushed everything with a block plane to make the drawer. I wanted to use some scraps of plywood and hard water that I had since they didn't matter as much in terms of aspect.
So I burnt the table so out, like I usually did to avoid making big quantities of dust inside and was actually quite hard to find a moment to make these cuts, since it was raining so much all the time on the last week's. Here, importantly, so I get the decides of the drawer and a false front from the same birch ply what I using the project and the front and back from the other random plywood. I had I needed to create a groove forward at the bottom piece to fit in so I removed the splinter from the insert plate and sneaked the cut until I got it right. You can also use a rarity to make this groove, or even a circular saw, as I mentioned before, that this project can be done just using it. Along with a drill, I didn't want any nails or screws showing up on the sides of the drawer, so I created sort of a rabbet to join the pieces together with panels and screws that will let it be covered by the false front.
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